رغز که به عروس تنگه‌های ایران مشهور است، مکانی که سنگ و کوه در مصافی هزاران ساله با آب و سرما و گرما، انواع جلوه‌‌های زیبای معماری طبیعی را در آنجا ایجاد کرده است و هر آبشار با دیگری متفاوت بوده و هر یک جلوه و زیبایی خاص خود را دارد.
۶۴ آبشار، که هر کدام شاهکار طبیعت هستند. دیواره‌‌های بزرگ و عظیم رغز، در طول مسیر گاه سر به هم آورده‌ا‌ند و راهی برای نفوذ آفتاب ندارند و گاهی از هم فاصله می‌گیرند و محوطه‌ای زیبا می‌سازند.
چند سالی هست علاقه‌مندان به طبیعت و حرفه ای‌های طبیعت گردی، تنگ‌رغز داراب را پیدا کرده اند و برای یک ماجراجویی پرهیجان وارد این منطقه بکر استان فارس می شوند.
تنگ رغز یکی از زیباترین طبیعت های استان فارس و حتی کشور ایران است که به عروس تنگه های ایران معروف شده است. معنای واقعی شور و هیجان طبیعت گردی را در اینجا می توانید احساس کنید.
جایی پر از چشمه های زلال آب با آبشارهای زیبا، صدای غرش آب و دیواره های سنگی بلند و پر از لانه کبوتران وحشی، که هر بیننده ای را به وجد می آورد.
طبیعتی که گردشگران و طبیعت گردان حرفه ای را از غیرحرفه ای جدا می کند. با این وجود شما هم با یک راهنمای حرفه ای و کمی آموزش، می توانید این مسیر را طی کنید.
بهترین زمان سفر و بازدید از تنگ رغز در فصل های پر آب یعنی حدود اردیبهشت ماه تا اوایل مهر ماه است، اما حتما قبل از شروع سفر اخبار هواشناسی را دنبال کنید و در هنگام بارندگی و سیلاب، به هیچ عنوان، وارد این تنگه نشوید.
از خروجی جنوب شرق شیراز به سمت فسا، حرکت کردیم و بعد از رسیدن به شهرستان فسا، سفر خود را به سمت داراب ادامه دادیم. تابلوی ۲۵ کیلومتر مانده به داراب را که دیدیم، نزدیک روستای حسن آباد در منطقه فسارود داراب بودیم.
در این روستا تعدادی راهنمای محلی حرفه ای بودند که با گردشگران همراهی می‌کردند. با یکی از این افراد آشنا شدیم و تجهیزات لازم را کرایه کردیم. سر شب چند ساعتی را در یک اقامتگاه بومگردی استراحت و تجدیدقوا نمودیم.
برای رسیدن به ابتدای تنگه رغز دو راه وجود دارد. یکی با حدود ۵ ساعت پیاده روی از شرق تنگه ما را به ابتدای مسیر تنگه نوردی میرساند و دیگری با ۲ ساعت وانت سواری و حدود سه ساعت پیاده روی از سمت غرب تنگه، ما را به ابتدای آن راهنمایی می‌کند که ما راه دوم را انتخاب کردیم و ساعت دو نیمه شب سوار یک وانت شدیم و به سمت تنگ رغز رفتیم.
دو ساعت وانت سواری در مسیری که خاکی و سنگلاخ بود و طبق توصیه راهنما، کاملا سرپا ایستادیم تا با دیواره های وانت برخورد نکنیم اما حتی در همان حال هم دیدن آسمان زیبای پرستاره، شگفت انگیز بود.
نزدیک اذان صبح به چشمه بیدک رسیدیم که از وانت پیاده شدیم و آب خوردن خود را برداشتیم و بعد از کمی استراحت، مسیر پیاده روی را شروع کردیم، مسیری جنگلی و سرسبز از درختان بادام و پسته کوهی که نیمی از آن شیب ملایمی داشت و نصف دیگر آن کوه‌پیمایی با سربالایی‌ها و سرپایینی‌های تندی بود و بالاخره حدود ساعت ۸ صبح به ابتدای تنگه رسیدیم و صبحانه خوردیم و وت سوت (لباس مخصوص ورود به آب سرد) پوشیدیم و تجهیزات فرود را به خودمان بستیم. دستکش پارچه ای محکم به دست کردیم و کفش آب نوردی را به پا.
بسته‌بندی و پَک کردن وسایل بسیار اهمیت داشت. وسایل را باید جداگانه در کیسه های محکم و ضخیم قرار داده و کاملا هوای آنها را می‌گرفتیم و محکم گره می‌زدیم. تنقلات و خرما و انجیر را هم در بطری های پلاستیکی ریخته بودیم تا کاملا از نفوذ آب در امان بمانند.
تنگه نوردی شروع شد. آبِ درون تنگ رغز بسیار زلال و خنک بود و دیواره های بلند آن باعث شده که بیشتر مسیر حرکت، سایه باشد و سردی هوا بیشتر حس شود.
بالاخره به جایی که باید اولین پرش مان را انجام می دادیم، رسیدیم. مثل اینکه کسی داوطلب نبود! یکی یکی جلو می آمدند و نگاهی به پایین حوضچه می کردند و بر می‌گشتند! بالاخره نفر اول پرید و من هم که ذوق پرش داشتم، پشت سرش راهی شدم! از همین جا هیجان اصلی سفر شروع شد.
تنگ‌رغز ۶۴ آبشار دارد که تنها ۱۲ آبشار به دلیل ارتفاع بلند، نیاز به فرود با تجهیزات حرفه ای دارد و بسته به مشخصات و ویژگی های ظاهری، این آبشارها توسط گردشگران نام‌گذاری شده اند و بقیه آبشارها را باید با پرش به درون حوضچه ها طی کرد.
در پایین دست همه آبشارها، حوضچه‌هایی از آب زلال و سرد و پر از ماهی‌های ریز و درشت قزل آلا وجود دارند که توصیه می شود از ماهی‌هایی که در حوضچه ها پیرامون شما شنا می کنند، نهراسید و چون مسافت برخی از این حوضچه ها زیاد است، باید حتما شنا بدانید و جلیقه نجات هم داشته باشید تا اگر ماهیچه هایتان در اثر سرما گرفتند، شما را روی آب نگه دارد.
اگر از آب و شنا می ترسید، قید این سفر را بزنید و اگر از ارتفاع می ترسید، پیشنهاد می دهیم که مقصد دیگری را برای طبیعت گردی انتخاب کنید.
آبشار نگین با ارتفاع ۱۶ متر، آبشار بوم رنگ به ارتفاع ۷ متر، آبشار مسعود به ارتفاع ۸ متر، آبشار گلاب حوضچه به ارتفاع ۱۱ متر، آبشار فتح به ارتفاع ۸ متر، آبشار حکمت به ارتفاع ۱۱ متر، آبشار کبوتر به ارتفاع ۲۵ متر، آبشار جام به ارتفاع ۹ متر، آبشار دماغه به ارتفاع ۱۲ متر، آبشار آذرخش به ارتفاع ۶۵ متر، آبشار یادگار به ارتفاع ۴ متر و آبشار وداع به ارتفاع ۴۶ متر، آبشارهایی هستند که برای فرود به تجهیزات کوهنوردی حرفه ای نیاز دارند.
کوله ها را یکی یکی به درون آب پرتاب می‌کردیم و به سمت حوضچه بعدی می‌رفتیم و حس خوبی داشت که نیاز نبود کوله ها را مدام به دوش بکشیم.
اما یک نکته خیلی مهم که باید به آن توجه داشت این که فقط هر حوضچه ای که راهنما گفت را بپرید، چون احتمال ارزیابی اشتباه عمق حوضچه ها توسط شما وجود دارد و اگر عمق حوضچه مناسب پرش نباشد و موقع پرش پایتان به کف حوضچه برخورد کند، کمرتان آسیب می‌بیند.
سر برخی پرش ها کمی معطل می شدیم و نازکشان بچه ها را تشویق به پرش می کردیم.
فرود از برخی آبشارها با تردید همراه بود چرا که انتهای مسیر را نمی دیدیم یا اینکه آبشاری پایین دست آبشار دوم بود که فشار آب مانع دیدن انتهای مسیر می شد. اما با رسیدن به پایین آبشار و شناور شدن در حوضچه زلال و خنک به آرامش می رسیدیم و برای فرود بعد انرژی می‌گرفتیم.
توصیه می کنم زیاد برای آب بازی در حوضچه ها معطل نشوید. چون مسیری نزدیک به 10 ساعت (بستگی به توانایی افراد گروه دارد) پیش رو دارید و بهتر است به شب نخورید البته آخر مسیر هم حوضچه زیبا و عمیقی برای شنا هست.
ویژگی خاص تنگ‌رغز این است که می دانیم راه برگشتی نیست و با شروع مسیر تنگه باید تا آخر آن را طی کنیم!
خوشبختانه تنگ رغز از مناطقی است که چون جای زیادی برای نشستن ندارد و فرصت زیادی برای باز کردن کوله و غذا خوردن نیست، به نسبت زباله کمی در طول مسیر وجود داشت. البته همان یکی دو جای نشستن هم گردشگران، محیط را با زباله هایشان مزین کرده بودند! پس لطف کنید اگر راهی رغز شدید زباله ها را در کوله بگذارید و همراه خودتان برگردانید.
در طول مسیر تنگه، با لانه های کبوتران و پرندگان وحشی بسیاری روبرو خواهید شد، مراقب باشید تا لانه های پرندگان را خراب نکنید.
دیگر به نقطه ای رسیده بودیم که فرود و پرش از آبشار کارساز نبود. اینجا تنها باید سر می‌خوردی! درست مثل پارک های آبی. سطح سنگ ها در اثر ریزش آب آنقدر لیز شده بود که سُر خوردن را راحت میکرد!
آخرین آبشار را که آبشار وداع هست، با طناب فرود آمدیم و به حوضچه بسیار زیبای قلب مانندی وارد شدیم به اسم حوضچه عشق، که آخرین نقطه ای بود که میشد شنا کرد.
بعد از حوضچه عشق، مسیری حدود چهار هزار قدم را در کوه طی کردیم تا به روستای حسن آباد رسیدیم.
این سفر بی نظیر است اما فقط به کسانی توصیه می‌شود که آمادگی جسمانی بالایی داشته باشند، آموزش شنا، فرود با طناب، گیره و کارابین را دیده باشند و شجاع هم باشند.
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